Monday, 19 January 2009
The Runway Sniper #22
Marni Menswear Fall Winter 2009/2010
I personally feel a showroom presentation best brings out the personality of Marni Menswear. Often more intimate, and it somehow better conveyed the exquisite quality Marni brings to the realm of menswear. So after a few seasons of runway presentations, the subdued styles of Marni is back to being presented in a showroom setting. Perhaps, Marni's non showy clean designs does not compete very well against the sea of 'statement looks' from other brands, but viewed in isolation, it somehow magically gets revived again.
For Fall Winter 2009/2010, Consuelo Castiglioni injected what she called 'elegant punk' into her creations of schoolboy chic. The colour palette are taken from cues of Kim Gordon's watercolors in the Sonic Youth concert she saw. Splashes of acid green are used on cashmere sweater(looking like mohair), shirts and bags. Burgundy, deep greys and black were also infused into the overall colour palette. The most intriguing look within this collection is the combination of long johns with pea coats, duffel coats, cardigan and sweatshirt that dramatically tapers the silhouette, creating a new visual balance for fall winter's usual chunky shapes. I love it. But to wear this look in reality is going to be a real mental challenge. 'Underwear' worn for the public to see is somewhat still a taboo for men:-P
Bags are of worthy mention this season too. Several shapes that range from the sporty to the corporate will see bag fanatics falling in love all over again with Marni. I am already a fan of the off white coloured leather bag with buckled handles. Classically elegant and stylish. There is also a shearling lined zipped jacket in black which I feel is a noteworthy piece amongst this collection of quirky elegant Marni chic.