Sunday, 8 November 2009

My MANy Bags Trendspotting #64

Below: Are you 'single' or 'double'? Double breasted jackets no longer belong to the older gentlemen. Young modern dandys are all into 'revolutionising' the way this garment can be worn. Pair with shorts and tees? Looks darn good!

Below: Worn open and with jeans? Definitely!

Below: Fans of double breasted jackets will find it well worth every effort, cos' the style flatters and adds elegance to men who can wear them well...

Below: No longer just for the more mature, young guys can add some edge and fun to the style.

Below: For Spring Summer 2010, double breasted jackets are given a more modern spin to make them more relevant in a modern day wardrobe. Dries Van Noten is the most notable in propagating this style. He has sent double breasted jacket looks down his runway since Spring Summer 2009. Patterned, checks, single coloured, double breasted jackets look right for the moment.

(Dries Van Noten Spring Summer 2009)

(Dries Van Noten Spring Summer 2010)

Below: Bottega Veneta adds visual punch to double breasted jackets with vivid hues of vermillion and plums...
(Bottega Veneta Spring Summer 2010)

Below: Lanvin dresses down with double breasted jackets and pairs them with sandals and sporty visors...
(Lanvin Spring Summer 2010)

Below: Trussardi goes young and street with chunky sneakers and bright coloured shorts..

(Trussardi 1911 Spring Summer 2010)

Below: Phillip Lim crops it short and tight or lets it loose...
(3.1 Phillip Lim Spring Summer 2010)

Double Or Single?

Lately, I have been toying with the idea of buying a double breasted jacket. What seemed to belong to an 'older gentlemen's closet, has recently been given a contemporary breath of fresh air by many top fashion designers, most notably, Dries Van Noten, is expert in perpetuating understated male elegance.

Why have double breasted jackets always taken a back seat in a men's wardrobe while its' single breasted counterpart still takes centre stage in a men's style even after centuries passed? Perhaps we can weigh in some pros and cons of both these styles to get a better understanding.

Single Breasted Jackets: One reason's for sure, single-breasted jackets are more readily accessible to every man and look good on just about everyone. Whether as a blazer or suit jacket, it can be made with single, two or three buttons, wide or narrow lapels, and high or low gorge, according to the particular needs of one's body. Hence, you can be assured, there will always be a single-breasted configuration that is guaranteed to make a man of any body type look smart and handsome.

However, on a less positive note, everyone owns a piece of single breasted jacket. If you are into individuality, then perhaps a double breasted jacket could be your way to make a statement of difference and channel more of your sense of style. Reason being, not everyone can pull off a double breasted jacket as easily as a single breasted one. While greater investment of time and effort is required for double breasted designs, those who have successfully pull off the style can safely tell you it is well worth every effort.

So what are the reasons and drawbacks of choosing a double breasted jacket?

Double breasted jackets: This design for a men's jacket have always been a more sophisticated alternative for guys seeking to stand out with style without attracting undue attention. For a casual observer, a double breasted jacket seem to only differ slightly from single breasted ones. But on closer examination, it yields a more revered and elegant look. The button stance, lapel roll, gorge height may each be selected to amplify a body's virtue and distract from any shortcomings. The shorter peak lapels also adds superior refinement to the wearer. With long diagonal lines of lapels rolling to below the waist, it gives impression of height and hides the width. So a well cut double breasted jacket helps in minimising girth on more burly men, especially when draped on broad shoulders, giving you a more commanding presence.

On the downside, double breasted jackets has an extra later of fabric across the front and 2 rows of buttons. When worn by a guy with smaller frame it drowns the person. And for slimmer guys with a narrow torso and shoulders, they will find the jacket covers almost their entire chest and barely allows for the shirt to see daylight. Beyond slim and smaller build guys, double breasted also diminishes height in a short person. This style of men's jacket is comparable to 'Cinderella's shoes' who chooses its wearer very selectively. With a more formal design than it's single breasted brother, double breasted jackets do become less versatile in the ways you can wear it. Most times, you can never wear anything less than a shirt with tie or unbutton without looking ridiculous. The double layer of fabric on the front decreases the comfort level of wearing especially in warmer climates.

Having said that, designers these days have changed perceptions of how a double breasted jacket can be worn aside from the more traditional styles we are familiar with. Modern dandys are now more savvy and experimental. Designers recognise this change of attitude and we now find shorter and more fitted versions which can look smart while being less conservative. With unconventional ways of styling, designers also help modernise the double breasted jacket and break the stigma of how it can be worn. Just check out the pics above (some from the Men's Spring Summer 2010 runways) which shows pairing of double breasted jacket with t-shirt, denim and shorts, or even worn with buttons open without looking the slightest bit awkward. Double breasted jackets never looked this fresh!

So what do you guys think? Are you for 'double' or planning to stay 'single'?

Unfortunately, as much as I like this style, I belong to the group that has been 'excluded' by this choosy garment. I simply do not have the stature to pull off such a look. Single here, I will stay.

Source: Frillr, GQ, The Sartorialist, Kishida Days


Eclair Au Chocolat said...

I love the outfit of the second pics!

Fiz said...

Lanvin does it best.